What Do Pet Frogs Eat? A Guide To Feeding Common Amphibians

What do pet frogs eat? Short answer: live, moving prey packed with protein and moisture. Longer answer: it depends on the species, the frog’s age, and how you prepare the feeders. If you dial in prey size, variety, and nutrients, you’ll see bright eyes, steady growth, and strong hops. Miss the mark, and problems like obesity, metabolic bone disease, or parasitic flare-ups can creep in. Here’s a clear, species-aware guide to feeding pet frogs the right way.

Frog Nutrition Basics And Safe Feeder Options

Carnivorous Insectivores And Occasional Vertebrate Prey

Your frog is a carnivore. Most pet frogs are insectivores first and foremost, thriving on live invertebrates. A few large species (like Pacman and Pixie frogs) can handle occasional vertebrate prey, but this should never be the main course. In general, think: insects most of the time, small aquatic invertebrates for water-dwellers, and vertebrates rarely and thoughtfully.

Prey Size, Variety, And Nutrient Balance

Match prey size to the width between your frog’s eyes, if it’s broader, skip it. Variety matters because different feeders bring different nutrient profiles. Rotate at least three to four staple species over a month. You’ll correct for low calcium in crickets, higher fat in some worms, and the great calcium-to-phosphorus balance you get from black soldier fly larvae. Balance comes from diversity plus smart supplementation, not from one “perfect” bug.

Staple Insects: Crickets, Roaches, And Black Soldier Fly Larvae

• Crickets: Widely available and accepted. They’re a good “activity” stimulus but can be calcium-poor, so you’ll gut-load and dust them.
• Roaches (dubia, lateralis): Meatier, easier to gut-load, and less likely to escape. Many frogs take them enthusiastically.
• Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL): Naturally high calcium, soft-bodied, and excellent for reducing impaction risk. Great as a frequent staple.

You can mix these across feedings to keep micronutrients varied and your frog engaged.

Occasional Treats: Worms, Flies, And Moths

Worms like earthworms and nightcrawlers are highly nutritious, especially for larger terrestrial frogs. Waxworms and butterworms are tasty but fatty, use sparingly. Mealworms and superworms are fine as occasional treats: their chitin is tougher, so you don’t want them to dominate the diet. Houseflies, blue bottle flies, and small moths are fantastic enrichment for arboreal species.

Aquatic Options: Bloodworms, Brine Shrimp, And Quality Pellets

For aquatic or semi-aquatic frogs, thawed frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, and high-quality amphibian pellets are reliable. Pellets specifically designed for aquatic frogs help maintain nutrient balance and simplify feeding in community tanks. Always thaw frozen foods in tank-safe water and target-feed to reduce waste.

Species-Specific Diet Guidelines

Tree Frogs And Reed Frogs

Green tree frogs, white’s tree frogs, red-eyed tree frogs, and reed frogs do well on small-to-medium crickets, roaches, BSFL, and the occasional fly. Keep prey on the smaller side and offer climbing, moving insects that encourage natural hunting. Tree frogs can get chunky fast, so portion control matters.

Poison Dart Frogs

Dart frogs are micro-predators. Feed primarily flightless fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster and hydei), springtails, and pinhead crickets. They eat frequently and small. Calcium is critical: dust light and often. Because they’re tiny, avoid oversized prey and keep the vivarium seeded with microfauna to support natural foraging.

Pacman And Pixie Frogs

These are ambush predators with big appetites. Offer large crickets, roaches, earthworms, and BSFL as staples. You can provide the rare pinky mouse or small fish, but only as an occasional calorie-dense treat, think once a month at most, to avoid obesity and fatty liver. Variety plus strict portion control is the safer path.

African Dwarf And African Clawed Frogs

African dwarf frogs are gentle, small aquatic frogs that thrive on thawed frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, and specialized pellets. Target-feed with tongs or a shallow dish so tank mates don’t steal their meals. African clawed frogs are larger and less picky: they’ll take pellets, worms, and small fish. Keep feedings measured, clawed frogs can overeat and foul the water quickly.

Feeding Schedules, Portion Control, And Body Condition

Tadpoles And Juveniles

Tadpoles are mostly herbivorous to omnivorous, shifting carnivorous as they metamorphose. Offer high-quality tadpole diets, blanched greens, and spirulina-based foods, then transition to tiny live prey as legs develop and the tail resorbs. Juvenile frogs need frequent, smaller meals, typically once daily or every other day, to fuel growth.

Adults And Seniors

Adult frogs usually do well with 2–4 feedings per week, depending on species, activity, and temperature. Arboreal species often maintain on smaller, more frequent portions: bulky terrestrial species may eat fewer, larger meals. Senior frogs slow down, trim portions and check that they still target and swallow prey effectively.

Monitoring Weight, Activity, And Stool Quality

A healthy frog looks filled-out but not ballooned. You shouldn’t see prominent hip bones or a sharply pinched waist: nor should the abdomen be taut and distended. Watch activity at feeding time, grip strength, and aim accuracy. Stools should be formed and dark. Persistent diarrhea, foul odor, visible worms, or undigested prey are red flags. Sudden weight change, up or down, calls for a diet review and possibly a vet visit.

Gut-Loading, Supplements, And Feeder Preparation

Calcium And Vitamin D3 Dusting Rotation

Most feeder insects are calcium-poor. Dust with plain calcium at most feedings for juveniles and every other feeding for adults. Add a calcium with D3 once every 2–4 weeks if your frog doesn’t have UVB lighting: with proper UVB, use D3 less often. Include a quality multivitamin about once weekly for small/active species and every 1–2 weeks for large sedentary species. Be careful with vitamin A, deficiency can cause eye and skin issues, but overdoing fat-soluble vitamins is risky. Light, consistent dusting beats heavy, sporadic dosing.

High-Quality Gut-Load Diets And Hydration Of Feeders

Gut-load insects for 24–48 hours before feeding using nutrient-dense greens (collards, mustard greens), orange veg (carrots, sweet potato), whole-grain cereals in moderation, and reputable commercial gut-loads. Provide moisture with water crystals or fresh produce so feeders are hydrated, your frog’s moisture intake largely comes from its prey. Avoid dog/cat food as a gut-load: it’s too rich in phosphorus and can skew ratios.

Feeding Methods And Habitat Considerations

Tong-Feeding, Cup-Feeding, And Free-Range Strategies

Soft-tipped feeding tongs let you place prey precisely and monitor intake. Cup-feeding (a smooth-sided dish) prevents escapees and accidental substrate ingestion. Free-ranging works for agile hunters, but only on escape-proof, bioactive setups and with prey that won’t hide forever. Rotate methods so your frog stays mentally engaged and you stay in control of portions.

Nighttime Feeding And Minimizing Stress

Most frogs are crepuscular or nocturnal. Feed at dusk or after lights-out with a dim room to match their natural rhythm. Keep handling to a minimum, approach slowly, and don’t hover a bright flashlight in their eyes. Stress blunts appetite: calm, predictable routines build confident feeders.

Preventing Impaction, Escapees, And Water Quality Issues

Use feeding ledges or cups for arboreal species and a separate feeding bin for terrestrial frogs on loose substrate. Choose soft-bodied feeders (BSFL, earthworms) if you’re worried about impaction. Remove uneaten insects within 15–30 minutes, crickets can nip and roaches will disappear into décor. In aquatic setups, spot-feed with tongs and siphon leftovers promptly. Good filtration helps, but overfeeding will overwhelm any filter.

Foods To Avoid And Health Red Flags

Toxic Or Unsafe Prey And Wild-Caught Insects

Skip fireflies (toxic), brightly colored beetles, ants with strong formic acid, and any insect collected from pesticide-treated areas. Don’t feed raw mammalian meat, processed meats, or feeder fish known to carry thiaminase regularly. Wild-caught bugs are tempting, but they can bring parasites and chemicals, captive-bred feeders are safer.

Signs Of Nutritional Deficiency, Obesity, Or Parasites

Watch for soft jaw, shaky limbs, bowed legs, or trouble aiming, these hint at calcium/D3 issues. A frog that’s constantly round, with fat pads bulging behind the head, is creeping into obesity. Stringy or runny stools, weight loss even though eating, or lethargy can signal parasites or infection. If you see edema (pitting swelling), mouth sores, or persistent refusal to eat, book a herp-savvy vet. Early intervention saves frogs.

Conclusion

Feeding frogs isn’t complicated once you lock in the basics: live prey sized to your frog, real variety, smart gut-loading, and a steady supplement routine. Adjust schedules to age and species, and feed when your frog is naturally active. If you ever catch yourself wondering, “What do pet frogs eat?” the practical answer is simple, clean, well-prepared insects (or aquatic invertebrates) that match your frog’s lifestyle, offered in measured portions. Keep it consistent, keep it calm, and you’ll have a healthy amphibian that eats with gusto and thrives for years.